Hardwire Combination Smoke/Carbon Monoxide Alarm The First Alert Hardwire Combination Smoke/Carbon Monoxide Alarm wires directly into your home's electrical system. In the event of a power outage, this alarm has been equipped with a 9V battery backup to provide optimal protection. The realization of ionization technology combined with an electrochemical sensor ensure optimal safety. A Mute Button has been included to serve the dual purpose of silencing nuisance alarms brought on by cooking smoke and shower steam.
This button also allows you to test the functionality of your alarm. This alarm carries a 10 year limited warranty and complies with new construction requirements. This smoke & CO alarm is for you if: You want alarms wired directly into your home's electrical system with the added safety of a battery backup. You want to easily mute unwanted alarms with the press of a button. Where To Place Safety Alarms: At least one near a home's sleeping area and on every level of the home.
First Alert Hardwired Smoke/Monoxide Alarm SC9120B Q: What is the proper placement of smoke alarms? A: It is important that you have the proper placement for your smoke alarms. Install your alarms at least 20 feet from appliances like furnaces and ovens, which produce combustion particles. Alarms should be at least 10 feet from high humidity areas like showers and laundry rooms, and at least 3 feet from heat/AC vents.
Be sure to install a smoke alarm in each bedroom, one at the top of each stairwell, and one on every level. Q: My smoke alarm keeps chirping and beeping. Why does my smoke alarm chirp intermittently? A: It is likely that the reason your smoke alarm keeps chirping and beeping is that the battery is low. Whenever your smoke alarm keeps chirping, replace the battery immediately. Other reasons include: It could be a different device or appliance such as a security system, monitor, carbon monoxide alarm, or other device which has a similar low battery or alert signal.
Some of the same factors that cause unwanted alarms can cause intermittent alarms: dust and insects in the alarm or power interruptions in hardwired alarms. Improper wiring on AC or AC/DC smoke alarms. AC alarms will chirp every 5 seconds if the interconnect wire is grounded. The orange interconnect wire should NEVER be grounded; it should only be used to interconnect other smoke alarms or compatible devices.
Q: Why doesn't my smoke alarm sound when I push the test button? A: It is important that you frequently test your smoke alarms. When you are testing your smoke alarm, there are a number of reasons why the alarm might not sound: You may not be holding the test button down long enough. Try holding it down for up to 10 seconds (20 seconds on photoelectric models) . Your battery may not be installed properly or snapped all the way in place.
Even if the alarm sounded briefly when the battery touched the terminals, you still need to make sure it is snapped securely in place. If the battery is loose, in cannot power the smoke alarm properly. After installing new batteries, be sure to test your smoke detector. Your AC power may not be on. AC and AC/DC units will have a power indicator light (red or green) that shines continuously when they are receiving electrical power.
If you have a 10-Year model, the smoke alarm may not have been properly activated. If the tab broke away before the alarm was activated, you can use a toothpick to move the switch over to test the alarm. Q: Why does my smoke alarm go off when I install a battery or turn on the AC power? A: It is normal for smoke alarms to go off and sound briefly (up to 5-10 seconds) when you install a new battery or when they are powered up.
If the alarm continues to go off and no smoke is present, the cause may be one of the following: There may be insufficient battery power, try new batteries. Problems with voltage or insufficient electrical power (brown out) may cause a continuous weak sounding alarm. For AC or AC/DC models, temporarily disconnect power at the service panel until the brown out is over. If you do not restore the AC power, your smoke alarms cannot warn you of a fire.
Incompatible warning device. If an incompatible alarm or auxiliary device is linked into a series of AC or AC/DC smoke alarms it may cause the system inadvertently go off. Q: My smoke alarm keeps chirping, even with a new battery. What is causing this? A: There are a number of possible causes for your smoke alarm to keep chirping even with a new battery. It is possible that your smoke alarm "silence" button was pushed by mistake.
The alarm will now "chirp" once a minute for up to 15 minutes before resetting. Are you sure it's the smoke alarm? Funny to ask, but other devices have similar low battery chirps or warning tones. Your "new" batteries may not be fresh. If batteries are stored, especially in cold areas like refrigerators, they lose their charge more quickly. Always check the freshness date on the package when buying new batteries.
Keep plenty of replacement batteries on hand so that you are sure to always be protected by your smoke alarms. Q: I lost my First Alert smoke alarm owner's manual. How can I get a new one? A: First Alert smoke alarm owner's manuals are available online for download at no cost. Find your alarm in our Smoke Alarms section. Q: Why does the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) recommend that home smoke alarms be replaced after 10 years? A: Smoke alarms have a limited life.
Although each smoke alarm and all of its parts have passed many stringent tests and are designed to be as reliable as possible, any of these parts could fail over time. Therefore, you must test the devices weekly. The unit should be replaced immediately if it is not operating properly. The performance of smoke alarms older than 10 years is simply not reliable. To ensure your family's safety, all carbon monoxide and smoke/CO combination alarms need to be replaced every 5-7 years.
All smoke alarms need to be replaced every 10 years.If it's time to replace your alarms, consider the NEW 10-Year Life series and never have to worry about a battery replacement for the life of the alarm.10-Year alarms are available in smoke,carbon monoxide and combination alarms. Q: How do I get my carbon monoxide alarm to stop chirping? A: If your carbon monoxide alarm keeps chirping, the battery may be low or weak.
On First Alert carbon monoxide detectors, check to see if the battery light is yellow or green. If the alarm is chirping and the light is yellow, it means the battery is low. The way to get a carbon monoxide alarm to stop chirping is to replace the battery. Q: Where should I install carbon monoxide alarms? What is proper carbon monoxide alarm placement? A: It is very important to install carbon monoxide alarms near or in each separate sleeping area.
Many states now require that a carbon monoxide alarm is placed in each bedroom. For added protection, placement of an additional carbon monoxide alarm at least 15-20 feet away from the furnace or fuel burning heat sources is recommended. Also, install carbon monoxide alarms at least 10 feet from sources of humidity like bathrooms and showers. In two story houses, install one carbon monoxide alarm on each level of the home.
If you have a basement, carbon monoxide alarm placement is recommended at the top of the basement stairs. Q: Is there anywhere I shouldn't install carbon monoxide alarms? A: Do not install carbon monoxide alarms in garages, kitchens, furnace rooms, or in any extremely dusty, dirty, humid, or greasy areas. Do not install alarms in direct sunlight, or areas subjected to temperature extremes. These include unconditioned crawl spaces, unfinished attics, un-insulated or poorly insulated ceilings, and porches.
Carbon monoxide alarms should not be installed in outlets covered by curtains or other obstructions. Do not install in turbulent air-near ceiling fans, heat vents, air conditioners, fresh air returns, or open windows. Blowing air may prevent carbon monoxide from reaching the CO sensors. Q: How many carbon monoxide alarms should I have in my home? A: So how many carbon monoxide alarms should you have in your home? The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) recommends that you should have a carbon monoxide alarm centrally located outside of each separate sleeping area in the immediate vicinity of the bedroom.
For added protection, you should have additional carbon monoxide alarms in each separate bedroom and on every level of your house, including the basement. Some states now require that you have a carbon monoxide alarm in each bedroom of the house. If you install only one carbon monoxide alarm in your home, place it near or in your bedroom. Q: What is the proper way to do a carbon monoxide alarm test? A: The following procedure is the proper way to do a carbon monoxide alarm test - Press and hold the Test Button on the front of the alarm until the alarm sounds.
Be sure you hold the button down long enough; it can take up to 20 seconds for the alarm to respond to the test. Q: Is it a false alarm when my carbon monoxide alarm sounds and there doesn't seem to be a problem? A: A carbon monoxide alarm false alarm should not occur if your alarm is in working order. Remember, carbon monoxide is an odorless, colorless gas. If your carbon monoxide alarm went off, it detected potentially harmful amounts of carbon monoxide.
After the professionals have evaluated the situation, make sure no one has any symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning.Here are a few situations that may cause a carbon monoxide alarm "false alarm:" The carbon monoxide alarm needs to be relocated. Carbon monoxide alarms should be located 15-20 feet away from all fossil fuel burning sources like furnaces and stoves. Alarms should be located 10 feet away from sources of humidity like showers.
Fossil fuel burning appliances may not be burning fuel completely. Check pilot lights/flames for blue color. Appearance of yellow or orange flames indicates incomplete combustion-a source of carbon monoxide. Q: Will carbon monoxide alarms detect explosive gas leaks? A: No, a single function carbon monoxide alarm reacts to carbon monoxide only. To detect explosive gas, you need an explosive gas detector.
Different kinds of explosive gas can be detected and it is recommended that any home that utilizes natural or propane gas have at least one explosive gas leak detector.See Also: First Time Home Buyer Alabama
An equipment is amongst the biggest investments you can at any time make. Appliances are normally significant buys, and are one particular in the most significant areas of your own home. You trust in appliances for anything from cooking to cleansing, and particularly looking at the amount of funds you may be placing forth for it, it only makes sense that you d want to be sure to make the most practical buy.
Property appliances is often a phrase that's used extremely commonly these days but exactly what does it stand for? Household appliances stand to the mechanical and electrical products which might be made use of in your own home for your functioning of the regular house.
I purchased three of these First Alert carbon monoxide alarms here on Amazon.com (two in 2008 and one in 2010) for placement in different locations around my house.One of these CO alarms - most likely a 2008 purchase - has just recently given up the ghost and gone into permanent error mode on the display which means that it's time to purchase a new replacement unit since the alarm's rated useful service life of about 7 years has expired, apparently just a bit on the early side (by about 1 year).
Well I just ordered a replacement alarm from Amazon, but it wasn't this identical First Alert model. Instead, I decided to purchase the comparable CO alarm by Kidde (Kidde 900-0234 Nighthawk Carbon Monoxide Alarm, Long Life AC Powered with Battery Backup and Digital Display - see my review) which I prefer for several reasons based upon my more than 6 years of experience with this particular First Alert CO alarm.
1) The aforementioned Kidde CO alarm is a truly dedicated plug-in unit with battery backup. The entire unit must be plugged directly into an AC outlet of your choosing where it can be rotated from the vertical to the horizontal (or anywhere in between) to provide a more convenient fit as needed.Since all of the AC outlets that I use for these devices are easily accessible, I have never had any use for the small, snap-on AC adapter with an extra length of cord that the First Alert model provides for easier access to inconveniently located power outlets while keeping the more bulky main alarm housing at a more distant and convenient location.
This specific feature has been nothing short of a nuisance over time with the small, flimsy brackets that hold the AC adapter in place on the back of the unit eventually breaking off resulting in an alarm that no longer can be plugged flush into the wall outlet unless you resort to less-than-perfect repairs to reattach the AC adapter with tape, etc.Unless you definitely need and/or want to mount your CO alarms at a distance from the power outlet, the Kidde CO alarm is the clearly more durable, all-in-one, easy-as-pie solution that you should purchase.
2) Since the batteries usually need to be changed no more than once each year, backup battery accessibility (2 AAs) is "too convenient" on the First Alert CO alarm. The batteries are located behind a relatively flimsy hinged plastic door/latch directly beneath the main LCD display on the front of the unit. This door opens relatively easily, but closing it can frequently be a problem as one or the other of the hinges seems to catch on something and provide significant resistance when attempting to do so.
I have on more than one occasion thought that the door might break, but it never did.The Kidde alarm provides battery backup via a 9V battery that is kept nicely out-of sight and out-of-mind in its battery compartment that can easily be accessed by removing a single screw with a Philips screwdriver. No worries about any potentially broken plastic doors, hinges or other parts here!3) The display on the Kidde CO alarm is a very nice, bright, always easily legible (even at night and at a distance) red LED which in my opinion is far superior to the LCD display that First Alert uses on its model.
Unless you activate the much needed back lighting by pressing the appropriate button, the LCD display is very difficult to read.4) The error code malfunction on the display (and associated beeping/chirping) indicating the useful service life of the alarm has expired and it needs to be replaced is not set to occur until 10 years after first powering the unit on with the Kidde alarm. The First Alert alarm is set to do this after only 7 years have elapsed and in my case (see above) this apparently occurred after only 6 years.
5) The manufacturing date of the CO alarm can be easily and clearly read on a sticker located on the back of the Kidde unit while trying to find the specific manufacturing date of the First Alert alarm (I am referring to my units from 2008 and 2010.) is like playing a game of hide and seek. I still have not been able to determine the manufacturing dates of my First Alert alarms.Note that unless there are small children or other individuals at home who are likely to tamper with the CO alarm by unplugging it, etc.
there is really no need to activate the optional anti-tampering functionality (alarm arrives with this feature turned off) on the Kidde CO alarm. Who needs or wants a loud warning alarm to go off every time that there is a power outage of any sort - definitely not me!Nevertheless, as far as the actual functioning of the CO alarm itself is concerned (accuracy and sensitivity, testing capability, last recorded peak CO value, etc.
) both manufacturers do indeed provide the consumer with essentially comparable devices. From a purely technical perspective, you really can't make a wrong decision in choosing either one of these home carbon monoxide alarms.